“I will be VIP!”: A visual tour of my fieldwork in Abidjan. Click on the photos for a larger view.

Signs in Abidjan play on themes of work, consumption, and Abidjan’s cosmopolitan self-image.

Signs in Abidjan play on themes of work, consumption, and Abidjan’s cosmopolitan self-image.

2.- This Guinness ad proclaims that “There is greatness in each man.” All the men represent a trade, except the guy holding the banner of greatness. For him, greatness comes from consuming a beer.
2.- This Guinness ad proclaims that “There is greatness in each man.” All the men represent a trade, except the guy holding the banner of greatness. For him, greatness comes from consuming a beer.
2.- “In Abidjan there is always something new happening.” This sign, with the broken clock above, says a lot about Abidjanais self-perception as the city that runs – despite the crisis that has left lives on hold.
2.- “In Abidjan there is always something new happening.” This sign, with the broken clock above, says a lot about Abidjanais self-perception as the city that runs – despite the crisis that has left lives on hold.
2.- “A boy’s beauty is in his work” proclaims this taxi. Just visible in the mirror is a mobile street vendor trying to make a sell.
2.- “A boy’s beauty is in his work” proclaims this taxi. Just visible in the mirror is a mobile street vendor trying to make a sell.
2.- Another testament to work – this taxi’s bumper reads “Here one works.”
2.- Another testament to work – this taxi’s bumper reads “Here one works.”

Images from the Sorbonne, where street-level political propagandists orated for former President Laurent Gbagbo.

3.- An orator from the Sorbonne shows his membership card.
3.- The Sorbonne market selling men’s wares.
3.- The Sorbonne market – women run the food stalls.
3.- The Sorbonne speking area.

Mobile street vendors, men who sell their wares in street traffic.

4.- A street vendor shows his wares.
4.- A street vendor shows his wares.
4.- A mobile street vendor shows me his identification card as proof that he is both Ivoirian and a hard-working student.
4.- A mobile street vendor shows me his identification card as proof that he is both Ivoirian and a hard-working student.
4.- Mobile street vendors on the job.
4.- Mobile street vendors on the job.
4.- …Trying to make a sell.
4.- …Trying to make a sell.
4.- Mobile street vendors sharing a laugh.
4.- Mobile street vendors sharing a laugh.
4.- A mobile street vendor selling perfumes dresses to impress.
4.- A mobile street vendor selling perfumes dresses to impress.

Some vendors worked their way up to having small, informal stalls.

5.- A former mobile street vendor, now moved up to owning his own stall. Other vendors sell his goods.
5.- A former mobile street vendor, now moved up to owning his own stall. Other vendors sell his goods.
5.- A former mobile street vendor with his shoe stall. Angrily he protested against the mayor trying to raze his informal stall, noting how badly he was harassed when vending on the street only to face similar charges of illegality now.
5.- A former mobile street vendor with his shoe stall. Angrily he protested against the mayor trying to raze his informal stall, noting how badly he was harassed when vending on the street only to face similar charges of illegality now.
5.- This shoe vendor’s shirt says he is “Money House Rich.”
5.- This shoe vendor’s shirt says he is “Money House Rich.”
5.- The same “Money House Rich” vendor shows off his top product.
5.- The same “Money House Rich” vendor shows off his top product.

In Abidjan themes of consumer culture are abundant.

6.- The decoration on this bus merges US and specifically black American symbols – common in Abidjan.
6.- The decoration on this bus merges US and specifically black American symbols – common in Abidjan.
6.- Second-hand mobile phone vendors taking a break over a “drogba” beer.
6.- Second-hand mobile phone vendors taking a break over a “drogba” beer.
6.- Tupac, a favorite in Abidjan’s street art.
6.- Tupac, a favorite in Abidjan’s street art.
6.- These barbershop signs of men from throughout the African diaspora offer images of likeness for men on Abidjan’s periphery.
6.- These barbershop signs of men from throughout the African diaspora offer images of likeness for men on Abidjan’s periphery.
6.- “Who the hell is Dolce and Gabbana?” …It is the favorite label of local music sensation “Douk Saga,” popular in Abidjan and Paris.
6.- “Who the hell is Dolce and Gabbana?” …It is the favorite label of local music sensation “Douk Saga,” popular in Abidjan and Paris.
6.- Obama is a new favorite.
6.- Obama is a new favorite.
6.- A barber and his self-portrait – A barber chooses to represent himself.
6.- A barber and his self-portrait – A barber chooses to represent himself.
6.- D&G is now Abidjan’s favorite counterfeit label reproduced on clothes, jewelry, vehicles and shops.
6.- D&G is now Abidjan’s favorite counterfeit label reproduced on clothes, jewelry, vehicles and shops.

Music and football are two predominant diversions for men on Abidjan’s periphery.

7.- A football team in Abobo, deep on Abidjan’s periphery.
7.- A football team in Abobo, deep on Abidjan’s periphery.
7.- A football game interrupted by men at work.
7.- A football game interrupted by men at work.
7.- A rap show in Yopougon, another neighborhood on the periphery.
7.- A rap show in Yopougon, another neighborhood on the periphery.
7.- Producing a song.
7.- Producing a song.

The members Frères de Zayon: MC, Busta, and Tino. I joined in the shoot at the University of Cocody campus for the album cover of our single, Je me bats pour mon avenir.

8.- My research assistant MC Black.
8.- My research assistant MC Black.
8.- My friend and former mobile street vendor Busta.
8.- My friend and former mobile street vendor Busta.
8.- My research assistant Tino Black.
8.- My research assistant Tino Black.
8.- A photo shoot for our single.
8.- A photo shoot for our single.

 

 

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Here are some links to video clips of the men from my research. Apologies as narration and dialogue are in French.

This first is footage I took of mobile street vendors selling their wares in rush-hour traffic in Adjamé’s Boribana neighborhood.

Next is a clip, “Á la Sorbonne,” from Afrique Arte TV’s blog. It includes footage and interviews and gives a good feel of the space. Most of the discussion concerns neocolonial Franco-Ivoirian relations. The music of Tiken Jah Fakoly, a renowned Ivoirian reggae artist across Africa and in France, plays in the background.
And here is footage I took at a hip hop performance in Abobo. Tino and MC perform their single, “Babylon,” well known along the local circuit. Notice the heavy male-to-female ratio. Nearing the end, friends join the stage; at times, upward of a dozen men from other groups will flood the stage to sing and background dance. This time, apologies for the shaky/at-times sideways camerawork!
Enjoy!